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phrozenballs
Burnout King
Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 211
Location: Barry nr cardiff
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 Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:59 pm Post subject: srad tail to k1 . please help |
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| i am now doing my nut in i have most of the parts for this but i am unable to find a original undertray/batt tray please please can somone help i will be documenting my progress then maybee you guys can use it aslo i have noticed some people changing the brake master res to the k1 version what is the reason for doing this please |
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BIGPKR
Burnout King
Joined: 16 Dec 2007
Posts: 207
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| Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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Read this
[link]
He says pm him he will help you through it. |
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pops
Site Admin
Joined: 15 Dec 2005
Posts: 11171
Location: milton keynes
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| Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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i kept the srad m/cyl but it is a very close fit  |
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phrozenballs
Burnout King
Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 211
Location: Barry nr cardiff
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| Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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| did you go for the raised rear pops how much did you cut , thanks for that thread i have already read it tho . maybee i will contact him. the dis advantage i have is that i use my bike everyday so i gotta try and do most of the prep work and then try to fit it all in a day lol |
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phrozenballs
Burnout King
Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 211
Location: Barry nr cardiff
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| Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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could you put a photo up to pops so i know exactally what you are talking about  |
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GixerHowie
moped
Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 65
Location: Lincoln
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| Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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The K1 battery trays seem to be a nightmare to get hold of, but persevere. Without it you will have nowhere for the ECU or starter relay.
I found the original master cylinder was a little too close to the subframe once it had been welded into the raised position, so i opted for a K1 item as its slightly smaller than the original. a small alloy bracket will still be needed to fix the master cylinder to the frame as the locating holes dont line up.
You can detach the srad rear end in virtually one piece. This will enable you to take your measurements of the new bits and do the trial fitting. Its only the new subframe that takes the time because of the cutting and welding required. One you've got everything right, tack the welds then strip it back off and replace temporary with the SRAD unit to ride once again.
One thing i didn'y mention previously was that the wiring loom need extending slightly. This should be soldered and not connected with budget quick connectors. Last thing you want is a dodgy connection causing the bike not to start.
PM me if you need any further assistance. |
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pops
Site Admin
Joined: 15 Dec 2005
Posts: 11171
Location: milton keynes
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| Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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it is close to the frame but fits fine i will try and take a pic tomorrow.
as for the loom mine is carbed and i didnt need to extend the wiring.
i cut a little less off mine to raise the rear slightly more. sorry but i cant recall how much i cut off |
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phrozenballs
Burnout King
Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 211
Location: Barry nr cardiff
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| Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:12 am Post subject: |
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| ok thanks for input guys , mine is also a carbed version just bought a rivnut tool so if any one is needing one in south wales i got one you can use ! |
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phrozenballs
Burnout King
Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 211
Location: Barry nr cardiff
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| Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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ok i got most of my parts for this at last or will have soon i spent the following so far , be warned the following prices were very cheap in my eyes we have two very good breakers near and they were silly prices for all of the parts . it seems to have taken ages to get it all
sub frame £48
seat unit & pillion seat £60
riders seat £ 22.50
k1 seat latch £5
original undertray £25
aftermarket undertray £32.50
rear cowl £27
all i need now are the pegs and a little help getting the size of all of the bolts needed for the sub frame section so i can buy them |
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phrozenballs
Burnout King
Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 211
Location: Barry nr cardiff
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| Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 9:24 am Post subject: |
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| nobody got the size of the bolts as i could really really do with them thats all of the fairing batt/tray bolts on a k1 rear end or where i could find the info i need please |
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GixerHowie
moped
Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 65
Location: Lincoln
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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| The 4 bolts for fixing the subframe to the main frame are the same as SRAD. You can get brand new replacements from most Suzi dealers. Reuse the SRAD underseat rear fairing bolts (hex head laid in a rubber grommet). i used M6 allen head to refix the tank bracket and seat side fixings, and any larger and most rivnut tools wont have the fittings unless you buy an expensive one. Undertray held in with the original SRAD fixing with the addition of a self tapping screw near the shock to fasten to the undertray. Basically you should have most fixings already off the SRAD. |
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GixerHowie
moped
Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 65
Location: Lincoln
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Why not put some photos out of your problem areas so we can have a look? |
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steveRS
Site Manager
Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 4078
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:21 am Post subject: |
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dont forget to turn the lugs around when you ally weld the sub frame m8 !!!
ive done this job twice now so if you need any info just ask!!!!
i know what to cut off and how much ! |
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phrozenballs
Burnout King
Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 211
Location: Barry nr cardiff
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 9:10 am Post subject: |
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nice one lads i just needed all of the fairing and undertray fixing bolt sizes so i can buy them ready , i am off work for a week in two weeks ( i use my bike everyday ) and have all of the parts now but no bolts . i have the 6 rubbers for the fairing as i have bought them new from our local suzuki dealers ( £17 grrr ) but i didnt want to pay over the odds just for bolts i also did not want to use the srad ones as i have somone who might want to buy the whole rear end off me
basiclly need the sizes of bolts and washers from fig 45 numbers 3,6,and fig 41 numbers 9, 8, 7 , 15 , 14 and what is 13 looks like one of those nasty plastic plugs
just wanted to buy the bolts so i have every thing here to do the job also steveRS how much di you cut off the rear end to give the rasied look but clear the rear main brake res withoput changing it ? here is my new ass end
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steveRS
Site Manager
Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 4078
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 10:11 am Post subject: |
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m8
put up the pic with the bits on your bed !!!!
i will mark it up and post it back !!!!!!!!
the important part is the lugs that go on the frame m8 you must turn the round !!!! |
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